The French Escape

Travelling during a pandemic is often viewed critically. Ideally we should lock ourselves up in our four walls and not leave the house since the invisible enemy could be lurking at every corner. But, you know, one needs a change of scenery every once in a while, and despite England having a lot to offer (refer to my last post) it is nice to leave the island sometimes. So in August we dared to board a plane to Bordeaux and went to a place called Pyla Sur Mer at the Atlantic coast. A run against time as it turned out, since a week later France was put again on the UK’s list of quarantine countries. Phew, that was tight but that’s the risk one takes now it seems. Living on the edge, the type of adrenaline we are all craving (or not). Anyway, Pyla is great. It’s not the first time I went there and it is always a winner. And despite all the French people going on a #staycation (feeling very trendy now with this hashtag; self-irony? Maybe.) in their own country, it wasn’t that busy.

On the first day we hiked up the most impressive Dune du Pyla. A UNESCO World Heritage site consisting of sand and sand and sand. It’s a wandering dune, goes for the odd walk every now and then, overlooking the Basin d’Arcachon, and despite it being massive, people flock on one side of the Dune, looking like birds sitting on an electricity cable. You can walk up from the back, there are stairs, and it is free to hike up. Otherwise, how we did it, you can access it from the front and walk up in the sand. A great morning workout and also a great way to burn. Luckily, I was covered in sunscreen and had my amazing straw hat on (I did not anticipate to look like a lobster at the end of it and it worked out, thanks to my hat). The view though makes it all worth it, and if you don’t like people (pandemic or not, I don’t like people) you can spread out and find a quiet spot and take in the breathtaking view on the Basin. The way down is very rewarding, and if you fancy you can roll down on your side, it’s fun I promise (and just a bit sandy).

On our second day we took the boat accross the Basin d’Arcachon to Cap Ferret, we took the boat in Moulleau. All very organised and Covid-19 friendly. You can book your ticket online in advance to avoid queuing or not getting a spot on the boat. Wearing a mask is compulsory and it is all open air. Obviously, there is always that one person without a mask, or wearing it down on their chin. Why wear a mask at all then, it’s not like they breath from their chin? A mystery. Or maybe their breathing functions in a different way from their chin. Anyway, this was not supposed to be a rant about mask wearing. The ferry staff is very helpful, they board your bikes should you have any and provide anti-bacterial spray, and on top they speak French and greet you with “Bonjour, Madame”. Yeah, I’m that old that I’m called a Madame now. Surely, the mask, my sunglasses and hat were hiding my immortal youth.

Once we arrived at Cap Ferret we took our bikes and cycled to the very end of the Cap, where you get a nice view on the Dune which is literally opposite. We stayed on the beach amongst all the bunkers from WW2. An interesting view with the sinking bunkers, since they moved with the sand into the water. A very wise man in my life always says “It is with pleasure to see that once the high tide comes, the Nazis sink into the ocean and disappear”. We could do with a bit of high tide in Europe, couldn’t we? Whoops, maybe that’s a bit cynical, but we all know with a global virus hanging about, the extreme right-wingers are crawling out of their holes and that’s not ideal.

Well, how did I get here. Let’s continue with the fun stuff, the travelling. So the Cap Ferret is an amazing spot. Miles and miles of sandy beaches, oyster farm villages and nice villas (for your dream holiday home). I do recommend taking the ferry across the Basin since driving around the peninsula is around 80 km. If you eat oysters, then probably you should try them since the area is known for them. Either in a restaurant, or buy them at the market and eat them at home. From a very reliable source (the same wise man I quoted earlier), I know that they are nice with some lemon juice and then you wash them down with an Entre deux Mer (the type of white wine that one drinks like grape juice and one can’t feel anything the next day, one does speak of experience). The emphasis is on ‘wash them down’, I’ve never in my life tried them but I’m sure there is something about them if that wise man eats them. Trust the wise man.

So this is the end of this short but sweet French escape. Very sweet indeed, I had about a kilo of Cannelé, the local dessert. It’s a somewhat bouncy little cake with rum. You might bounce around yourself if you have too many of them. Even if it won’t be abroad, get out of your home office, it will do you good. I will stop here now otherwise I’ll get on another rant about the myth of the home office. And I don’t think it’s that exciting, neither the rant nor the myth.

Adieu, mes amies! – You speak French very well – Gracias. A small Mr Bean quote to brighten up your day.